Derma Rolling 101
A derma-roller contains hundreds of tiny needles. When in use, these needles create micro-injuries on the skin, which in turn sends collagen and elastin production into overdrive to compensate as it heals—leaving your complexion tighter and plumper than it was beforehand. This makes it an ideal method for filling in fine lines and wrinkles, thickening and plumping the skin under the eyes (thus diminishing the appearance of dark circles and bags), and even plumping up lips. Micro-needling is also a very effective treatment for acne scars and discoloration since it penetrates the skin so deeply. Plus, when used in conjunction with a serum (as it should be), it boosts ingredient absorption by up to 90%.
For a more intense, in-office treatment, many dermatologists use a derma-pen, an electronic micro-needling device that oscillates as it punctures the skin. These treatments often have immediate and dramatic results but also have side effects like pain and bleeding. They also tend to be very expensive.
Fortunately, at-home derma-rolling is a much thriftier alternative that still gets great results with regular maintenance. It requires a much lower pain threshold, too.
First off, make sure you’re sourcing one from a quality retailer. I’ve purchased great (and cheap!) derma-rollers on Amazon but would definitely suggest making sure it’s well reviewed and from a verified seller before making your selection.
The next thing you have to consider is needle size. It's strongly advised to only use 0.3 mm or lower, as anything thicker has a higher risk of damaging skin (especially on delicate areas around the eyes and lips). Larger needle sizes can be used for other areas of the body for things like stretch marks.
Besides promoting grown of new healthy cells, derma-rolling can help the skin absorb serums because of the small puncture wounds made in the epidermis. Serums to combine with derma-rolling should contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, stem cells, peptides, and growth factors. These ingredients will maximize the effects of micro-needling to stimulate collagen, speed up cell turnover, improve hyper-pigmentation, smooth out fine lines, firm, plump, and hydrate.
On the other hand, very active ingredients like retinol, tea tree oil, and vitamin C are no-nos—they can cause sensitivity to begin with, and using them in tandem with micro-needling is a recipe for irritation.
Step 1: Before getting started, disinfect the head of your derma-roller with 70% Isopropyl alcohol- even if it's brand new. You can either spray the head and let dry for ten minutes or soak the head in a glass of alcohol and then let dry for ten minutes.
Step 2: Prep your skin by cleansing and then exfoliating using a mild chemical peel or derma-brush. I prefer using a derma-brush because using a chemical peel AND derma-rolling seems like overkill.
Step 3: After cleansing your face, add one to two layers of your serum of choice to your face.
Step 4: Take your derma-roller and gently roll it over your skin vertically, horizontally, and diagonally, rolling twice over your cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, and neck. No need to press too hard or put yourself in pain—apply as much pressure as you can comfortably tolerate. Take special care on your lips and underneath your eyes, as this skin is especially delicate. (And never apply serum or roll on your eyelids.)
Step 5: After finishing, add a second layer of serum. If you aren’t overly sensitive to retinols, Benjamin says you can use them after rolling (though only at night).
This is really up to you: You can safely use your micro-needle as often as a few times a week, but I simply use mine once a month and have really been able to maintain my results that way. It really depends on what you’re most comfortable with and what kinds of skin issues you’re treating. (If you have a lot of discoloration or fine lines, you may want to use yours more often.)
After using, cleanse your roller again with 70% Isopropyl alcohol and store it in its plastic case. Also be sure to replace your derma-roller often—once a month, if you’re using it several times a week, or after about 10 to 15 uses.
💉DERMAROLLING💉 Hi guys 👋🏼 This is my first time trying dermarolling at home! It was a very new, interesting, and slightly scary experience (as I was so scared I was going to press too deep into my skin)🤣 ✨ The video can only be 60 seconds so I couldn’t go too in depth, but the whole process took about 10 minutes, for me. This is a type of microdermabrasion that aids in skin resurfacing and repairing acne scarring 💭 PRODUCTS SHOWN @skinstitut’s Skin Inject DNC Dermaroller 0.25mm @cosmedix_ Purity Balance Exfoliating Prep Toner @isocolaus Rubbing Alcohol Spray @dermelect Resurface stem cell reconstructing serum ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️ ~song: Cardi B - I Like It Instrumental by Timothy Infinite #dermarolling #microdermabrasion #beautytips #skincare #skincarepost #youngcouture_ #skinstitut #dermaroller #microneedling #vampirefacial #kimk #skincareblogger #australia #skincaretips #clearskin #selfcare #acnescarring
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Photo credit: @glowgirl_cosmetics
Instagram post: @skin.space